Britsport of Seattle

206.283.3578

We are open Monday through Friday, Noon - 8:30pm by appointment only.

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Triumph TR6 Rust Repair

Triumph TR6 Rear Valance

Triumph TR6 Rear Valance. This car (not long ago “restored”), was brought in for body and paintwork due to rust bubbles appearing in various locations on the car. The rusty lower rear valance was stripped of paint where we discovered Home Depot expando foam used to fill rusty holes. Some guys should not be allowed to have tools.

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1955 MG TF

1955 MG TF

1955 MG TF. Nice car fresh from an East coast restoration with a completely clapped out gearbox and clutch/brake linkage. Would not stay in gear up hills. Clutch and brake pedals rocking around. The gearbox was removed and rebuilt correctly, and the pedal mechanisms put right.

Triumph TR3A SU H6 Carbs Rebuilt

TR3A SU H6 Carb Set

Rebuilt pair of Triumph TR3A SU AUC878 Carburetors. Finished to street standards with new throttle shafts, butterflies, metering needles, jets, floats (sinkers?).

1953 Triumph Mayflower

Triumph Mayflower

1953 Triumph Mayflower. In for minor work.

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Triumph TR4 TR250 TR6 Cowl Drains

Triumph TR4-6 Cowl Drain

A design problem that exists with the Triumph TR4 thru TR6 range of cars is the drain of water that enters the cowl via the vent opening below the windscreen. The factory design routed the water out of the cowl via two metal tubes on either side, with rubber extensions exiting out between the inner and outer fenders. Small reliefs pressed into the bottom of the front fenders was supposed to allow the water to drain, but in very short order, these reliefs were plugged with road sling, mud, leaves, small critters, etc., effectively plugging these slots creating a soggy mess that rarely dried out. This soggy mess then caused premature rusting of the forward inner sill and lower front fender area. It is rare for me to disassemble a TR body from this era and not have a certain degree of rot caused by lack of adequate drainage. Several years ago I devised a simple but effective solution to the water drain problem. As you can see by this photo, I insert a small section of 1/2 in. copper pipe into the factory rubber tube, then route additional rubber hose down and out thru the forward inner sill and out the bottom.  If you have ready access to the underside of the inside bulkhead, the rubber hose can be replaced in it’s entirety from the metal tubes. The holes in the inner sill drilled for the hose are sealed with clear silicone. The reason the routing appears to be far forward is the frame rail inside the lower sill opens up to allow the drill body and hole cutter to reach. Further aft, the access to the inside sill is restricted by the frame side rail.

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We specialize in Jaguar, MG, Austin Healey, and Triumph